Safety, Rules, and Customer Responsibilities
Ebikes are not recommended for riders under age 18. By purchasing an ebike and/or golf bag carrier, customers agree to assume full responsible for proper assembly, to ride safely, and to observe all rules on the golf course and/or local neighborhoods and roads. Letting other people ride your ebike is not recommended. Customers accept full responsibility for the safety of anyone you let ride your ebike. Customers also agree to be responsible for proper maintenance including but not limited to proper tire air pressure, brake adjustment, and tight bolts. By purchasing an ebike and/or golf bag carrier, the customer agrees that GolfEbikes, its parent company and owners, and the ebike manufacturers are not responsible in any way for the safe operation and maintenance of the ebike and/or golf bag carrier.
Bag Carrier Instructions
We have divided the Bag Carrier Instructions into two sections:
- The first half describes the FUNCTIONALITY, how to “use” the Golf Bag Carrier while playing golf. It includes videos, hints, and safety cautions.
- The second half is the actual INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS describing how to mount the Bag Carrier to your ebike with photo references.
Functionality of the Quick-Attach Golf Bag Carrier
Our Bag Carrier will fit any ebike with a rear rack, even those with super tall 29 inch tires.
By “Quick-Attach” we mean that the “Bag Carrier Frame” can be placed onto and removed from the rack mount in 2 or 3 seconds without the need for any pins, bolts, or locking devices. It is held in place by gravity and the patent-pending “Blade-and-Slot” design. The benefit of the quick-attach feature is so you can easily remove the carrier when you want to load, unload, or fold your bike, and when you want to use your ebike for purposes other than golf. This first video shows you how quick and easy it is to attach and remove.
As shown in the video, to remove the Carrier, you will angle the BOTTOM of the Carrier AWAY from the bike about half way so the bottom of the slot brackets can be raised up into the “Lift & Remove Notches,” which allows the top of the slots to be lifted up-and-over the “Pivot Notches” and off of the bracket.
This combination of movements cannot be accidentally replicated while riding or while using the Carrier as a kick stand which is why it is so solid, and yet easy to remove without any pins or fasteners. You will notice the “Optional Lock-Out” which can be used by golf courses who rent ebikes since they don’t need to remove the bag carrier.
NOTE: The slots in the Slot Brackets are intentionally tight as they pivot into the upright-carry and into the kick-stand positions. So you might need to force them in the beginning. But as the powder coating in the slots and pivot notch wears off, the fit will become smooth.
If you have a carry stand bag, its “foot” will fit through the open space at the bottom of the bag carrier frame as shown in this picture.
Tilting the Bag Into The Kick-Stand Angle
The videos show you how to pivot the bag into the kick-stand angle when you arrive at your shot. With a little practice, with your left hand on the handlebar and your right hand on the top of your bag, you can do this while you are getting off your bike…all in one motion. Just make sure that you pivot the bag carrier ALL THE WAY OUT so the carrier and your bike have plenty of “lean” which will safely lock it to the ground…even on steep slopes. If on a side-slope, just orient your bike up-hill or down-hill rather than side-hill.
When you get back on your bike, the bag and carrier will automatically pivot back to vertical as you stand your bike upright. As a matter of habit, place your right hand against the top of your bag as you move your bike upright so the bag doesn’t “slam” against the rubber bumper. This is especially important if your bag is heavy or if you have a light-duty bolt-on rear rack on your ebike,
Loading your bag into the Carrier – It is easiest to attach the Bag Carrier Frame to the rack bracket empty…without your golf bag strapped to it. So, step one is to attach the Bag Carrier to the bracket. Step two, with your bike leaning on the Bag Carrier in the kick-stand position, load and strap in your bag. We do NOT recommend trying to strap your bag to the Carrier with the bike on its own kick stand which is not as stable as using the Carrier as the kick stand.
Pedal Position, Pedal Assist, and Gear Recommendations – The easiest way to take off is to use the throttle to get going, then add pedal. Most ebikes require you to be in at least PAS-1 for the throttle to work. We recommend that you get used to it in PAS-1 and Gear 2 or 3, then increase the PAS and gears when you are comfortable with your bike.
CAUTION: Never start off with your left foot on the ground in front of the the Bag Carrier which can run into your heel and cause injury as you take off .
If you let anyone ride your bike, be sure to tell them to put their left foot on the pedal before they take off.
HILLS – As you are approaching a hill, you can “get a run at it” with the throttle by going go to the highest PAS setting to get full power from the throttle, whether you are pedaling or not. You can then shift-down with the gears as needed to get up the hill. Note that a “pedal assist” ebike is not meant to be powerful enough to use only throttle on steep hills. Depending on the steepness, you will likely need to also use your legs.
Do not shift gears while only using the throttle or at a stop. You MUST be rotating the pedals as you shift gears. For instance, do not shift gears while you are stopped, and then take off which can cause the chain to “jump” the sprockets. All ebikes with derailleurs are designed to shft up and down WHILE PEDALING.
If you park on an uphill slope and know you are going to need a low gear to take off, gear down as you approach the parking spot so your bike is ready to start out in low gear when you get back on. With practice, you will discover your own preferences. If you are new to biking, you can learn the basics of how to shift gears by searching, “How to shift ebike gears” on YouTube.
POWDER COATED TEXTURED FINISH –The Divnick Golf Bag Carrier is made out of rugged 5052 aluminum and is powder coated with a durable textured finish that can withstand a lot of impact and wear. Of course, where the “slot-and-blade” hinge moves, it will wear through the powder coating and reveal bare aluminum. If at any time you want to touch up the finish, the easiest way to do it is with black fingernail polish which is hard, durable, dries quickly, and has its own little brush applicator.
SAFETY – Always ride safely, especially when riding around corners on wet pavement, crossing bridges, traversing steep hills, riding over loose gravel, or the edges of cart paths. Since ebikes on golf courses are a new initiative, we all want to work together to be safe and make sure the golf courses don’t have any reasons to restrict ebikes.
CAUTION – CAUTION – CAUTION
The most common riding mistake is when you ride onto or off the RIGHT edge of a raised cart path causing the bottom of the Bag Carrier to hit the pavement. When riding onto or off the right side of a raised path, do it at right-angles. NEVER allow the bottom of the Bag Carrier to hit anything solid such as the paved path, curb, rock, root, or post.
Installation Instructions Start Here
Parts List and Names
We are starting out with a photo of the parts and their names which we reference throughout the rest of this Instruction page. If you have any questions about the parts, please refer to them by these names.
Buckles and Straps
Note: Some of the videos and photos show small ropes to secure the bag to the Carrier Frame which we used in the beginning. But we now provide cam buckles and straps that work the same as on a golf cart.
The Bag Carrier will hold all average size golf bags, at least the dozens of models we have tested. We do not recommend staff bags or bags with large-diameter bottoms. Ideally, you will want a bag that fits all the way to the back of the Carrier frame…and most do. For practical reasons, we recommend “going light” with a carry bag that isn’t loaded down with dozens of balls.
Some customers add a folded towel or other cushion between the legs of their carry bag and the Carrier frame to prevent rattling and any possible scratching of the legs of their bag.
If you prefer ropes, synch-belts, shock-cords, bungees or other methods of securing your bag to the Carrier, we have include slots and holes to make any method easy.
In the top-left picture below, notice that there are 3 strap slots with holes in the center of slots 1 and 2. Assuming you are mounting the carrier on the left side of your bike (recommended), mount the cam buckles in the holes in the 1-slot in the top and bottom wings on the right side of the carrier. If you mount on the right side (not recommended), you can affix the buckles on the left side of the Carrier.
The straps are long enough for most bags, even large bags. But if your bag has a stiff pocket right where the top strap is located as in this photo illustration of a Ping bag, let us know before you order so we can include a longer strap.
Floor Plate Installation
The Floor Plate has 2 tabs that fit into 2 slots in the back of the Bag Carrier Frame, and is secured with 2 nuts and bolts as shown.
Mudguard Installation for Front Fenders
There is no manufactured mud guard or mud flap for fat-tire ebikes that is long enough to prevent grass from being thrown up under the bike. So we have found a source of heavy-duty 1/8 inch thick diamond plate rubber, and we make our own 12-inch long x 6-inch wide mudguards. The instructions below describe how to install them under a traditional fender brace as seen in these pictures. Note: These work on all FULL fenders, although there might be some odd designs out there that require some modification. They do not work this way on SHORT fenders which usually do not have a brace as shown in these pictures. If you want to install it on a short fender, you will need to attach it on your own. For instance, you could get some short screws and nuts and drill holes in the lower corners of the fender with matching holes in the mudguard.
Most ebikes use this same type of 2-hole fender brace system, although the materials will vary. If yours doesn’t fit our hole pattern, you can easily drill or punch new holes in the rubber. In fact, you can trim this rubber with a pair of scissors if you want it to be shorter or narrower or have rounded corners. Some customers have not used the fender brace and drilled new holes in the bottom corners of their fender and attached the mudguard with their own screws. This alows the mudguard to hang lower, and they can easily remove it if they want to do a different type of riding.
The instructions below refer to the numbered illustrations in this picture.
1 – Place a felt-tip mark on either side of the bracket to help you identify the center of the brace after you affix the mudguard. Then unscrew the 2 Phillips screws. Notice the orientation of the threaded female piece on the inside of the fender. The rounded inside edge of the holes goes against the inside of the fender.
2 – This picture shows the brace (in this case heavy wire), the rubber mudguard, the bracket-clamp piece with 2 Phillips screws, and the threaded female piece that is on the inside of the fender.
3 – Lay the mudguard and fender brace on a table or floor. Place the clamp-bracket with screws over the brace and holes, inserting the screws through the mudguard.
4 – Pick up the assembled mudguard, brace, and bracket, and insert the screws through the holes in the fender. In this picture, you can see the edge of my thumb. My index and middle fingers are holding the brace, clamp-bracket, and screws in place but not visible in this picture. Don’t be concerned about the orientation of the brace at this time. It can be extending in any direction.
5 and 6 – With your fingers holding the brace, clamp-bracket, and screws in place, put the threaded piece over the screws with the rounded screw-entry side against the screws. Holding the threaded piece with your thumb, turn the screws with a Phillip screw driver until the end of the screws are all the way through the threaded piece. Not tight, just all the way through.
7 – The next step is to make sure that the mudguard is straight in line with the fender. The easiest way to do this is to lay it upside down as illustrated in picture 7. You can maneuver the mudguard within the brace to get it straight. Then tighten the Phillips screws.
Now you are ready to install the fender following your bike assembly instructions. When you get the fender on, if by any chance the mudguard isn’t hanging straight, you can loosen the Phillips screws and straighten it. Just be careful not to unscrew them all the way out of the threaded piece.
NOTE: The thickness of the mudguard will squeeze the sides of the fender in a little. Be sure to “center” the fender so the tire does not rub it. Centering can be done by making sure the connection at the top (where the light is attached) is straight, and also by bending the side-braces in or out as necessary.
INSTALLING THE BAG CARRIER
If you are purchasing one of our ebikes, we will include a supplement when we send the shipping confirmation so you know exactly how to mount the Bag Carrier.
The following instructions are intended as general guidance for all ebikes. Our universal-fit golf bag carrier is designed to fit all ebike racks. Of course, all racks are different, so some adaptation might be required. Our Bag Carrier parts have a variety of pre-drilled holes that you can use, along with supplied 1/4-20 Phillips head bolts and nylon nuts which use a 7/16″ end wrench or socket.
On rare occasions, it might be necessary to drill new holes in the bracket and underplate in order to fit around or through the cross bars in your rack. If your ebike rack and design is unique, feel free to ask us for more specific instructions. It is best if you email us at sales@golfebikes.com with photos of your bike and rack so we can provide the best assistance.
PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL OF THE INSTRUCATIONS BEFORE YOU START THE INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Be sure to lubricate the nut and bolt threads with any kind of oil or anti-seize.
Stainless hardware gets hot from the friction and can “lock up” causing the nut to seize to the bolt. If you don’t have any anti-seize or oil handy, scrape some bar-soap into the full length threads of the bolts. Also, thread the nuts on slowly. Do not use a speed wrench or battery driver.
Where to locate the Rack Bracket on your rack
Generally speaking, you will want to affix the Rack Bracket as far back as possible on your rack so that your golf clubs will not be touching your back as you ride. You will also want to locate it so that the Rubber Bumper lines up with a good stopping position described in the next section.
If your bike has a short rack, you might want to mount the Bag Carrier with part of our Bracket off the end of your rack. Because of the strength of our Rack Bracket, you can have up to 1/3rd of it off the back of the rack.
TEST BEFORE YOU BOLT! AND DEFINITELY BEFORE YOU DRILL!
Before you bolt anything together, you can conduct a test by loosly assembling the parts and placing the assembly on the rack to check alignment and optimum height and lean angle. Please read through all of the instructions before bolting anything in place.
Rubber Bumper Installation
The purpose of the Rubber Bumper is to prevent the Bag Carrier from touching your brake assembly. It will be attached AFTER everything else is installed, but we are showing it to you now because you need to locate the Rack Bracket on your bike in such a way that the bumper lines up with a good stopping point. The bumper is attached on the back of the Carrier frame to one of the holes along the left side. If you mount the Bag Carrier on the right side of your bike, you will need to drill your own hole for the bumper. Select the lowest position so that the Bumper comes to rest against the axle or part of the frame around the axle, or against the bike’s kick stand as shown in the photos below. The Bumper doesn’t have to line up exactly with the center of the axle nut…it is OK if the side of the Bumper comes to rest against the side of the axle nut, or any of the framing around the axle, preferably just beyond the axle. If your bike’s kick stand is strong, you can position the rubber bumper to stop against the kick stand which also allows you to mount the Rack Bracket farther back and lower which is preferred.
Alternatively, if your bike doesn’t have a good place for the bumper to stop, you can use a tether as shown (not included in the kit). Any small rope, strap, or paracord will work.
Two Ways to Affix the Rack Bracket:
- Using our “Under-Clamp”, or
- Drilling holes in your rack
The most secure method to attach the Rack Bracket is to drill holes in your rack and bolt the Bracket directly to it. If your rack has a couple of places where you can drill at least two or 3 1/4″ holes through it, you can bolt it without using the “under clamp-piece” shown in the sequence below.
We recommend starting off using the “Under-Clamp” to affix the Bracket to your rack. It has pre-drilled holes that match the holes in the Bracket. The Under-Clamp will span under your rack frame as shown in the pictures below. While the Bracket and Under-Clamp have matching holes, but if they don’t work easily with the bar-spacing on your rack, feel free to drill new holes using a 1/4 inch bit.
If your rack curves up in the back, you will need to mount our Rack Bracket in front of the up-curve, or add a “spacer” as illustrated in this picture, so you can mount the Bracket all the way to the back. If you let us know the thickness you will need, and the width of your rack, we will include a piece of wood along with your Carrier. Or you can supply your own spacer which can be wood, composite deck board, oversized nuts, a stack of washers, a piece of aluminum tubing (pictured)…all available at any hardware store.
Attaching the Rack Bracket With the Under-Clamp
It is very beneficial if you have someone to help hold the Bracket and Under-Plate while you insert the bolts and nuts. If you don’t have someone to help you, use a clamp as shown to hold the two pieces together while you work with the nuts and bolts.
Be absolutely sure to lubricate the threads on the bolts so they do not seize up. We supply 4 bolts and 7/16 nylon nuts. If they are too long and interfere with your fender, you might need to cut them shorter or get some shorter bolts from the hardware store.
It can be a little difficult getting the nuts started, and holding them while turning the Phillip bolt because there isn’t much room underneath for your fingers. It helps to put a piece of tape under the socket to hold the nut. The nylon locking feature adds to the difficulty, but be patient…and BE SURE TO LUBRICATE THE THREADS.
Tighten the bolts one after another, as tight as possible with the screwdriver, then some more with the wrench to make sure the Under-Clamp is holding tightly. It should not move, even with an abundance of force on it.
Drilling Holes and Bolting Directly to the Bike Rack
As noted above, the most secure way to attach the Rack Bracket is to bolt it directly to your bike rack. This is much easier if your rack has flat cross-bars. But it is also possible if your rack has large enough round bars. You will need to orient the Rack Bracket so at least 3 of the holes line up with the perimeter or cross bars as illustrated in this next photo. The holes in the Rack Bracket are larger than necessary for the 1/4″ bolts which allows for a little variance over the bars. We recommend drilling holes in your rack with a 1/4″ bit. Center-punch the tubing so the bit doesn’t “wander” off-center. Make sure that the Rack Bracket stays firmly against the side of the rack.
If none of the holes in the Rack Bracket line up with your rack tubing in such a way that the Rubber Bumper comes to rest against a solid place near the axle or against the bike’s kick stand, you can drill new holes in the Rack Bracket and/or a new hole in the Carrier Frame for the Rubber Bumper. Aluminum is easy to drill.
DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES UNTIL YOU TEST ALL POSITIONS DESCRIBED IN THE REST OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS. That is why we recommend using the Under-Clamp first. Or, if you have purchased one of our ebikes with flat cross bars, we will send you specific drill locations.
Attaching the Slot Brackets to the Bag Carrier Frame
The Slot Brackets have multiple holes that can match up to the multiple holes in the Bag Carrier Frame at a height so that the bottom of the Carrier Frame is about 4 inches (100 mm) above the ground when in the upright riding/carry position.
The rear rack on most ebikes with 20×4 inch tires is about 25 inches above the ground (635 mm). Therefore, the typical placement of the Slot Brackets on the Bag Carrier will be as shown in this next image. If your rack is higher off the ground, then the Slot Brackets will be placed higher on the Carrier. In fact, for very tall bikes, you can flip the Slot Brackets over with the slots “up” even higher than the top of the Carrier frame if need be.
TEST – You can conduct a test before solidly bolting everything together. With your ebike resting on its kick stand, and with the Rack Bracket clamped to your rack (not bolted yet), place the Slot Brackets onto the Pivot Blades with the slots “down” as indicated. Then place the Bag Carrier against the Slot Brackets and put the bolts through in these positions. This is easier with someone helping you. With the bike on its own kick stand, the bottom of the Carrier Frame should be about 3.5 inches (90 mm) from the ground which will be about 4 inches (100 mm) when upright and riding.
With that knowledge, it is easy to make the height adjustments as necessary.
This test also helps you know where to mount the Rack Bracket so the Rubber Bumper will line up against the axle nut or other frame part.
Alternate Method – Another way to know where to place the Slot Brackets on the Bag Carrier Frame for proper height clearance is to place the Slot Brackets on the Rack Bracket (slots down). With the bike on its own kick stand, place the Bag Carrier Frame on a 4×4 block of wood or a 2×4 on its edge. A 2×4 or 4×4 is actually only 3 1/2 inches wide, but with the bike leaning on its kick stand and the Carrier straight up, it raises the bottom of the Bag Carrier about 1/2 inch which results in the desired 4 inch clearance.
When you are satisfied with the height and clearance, go ahed and bolt the Slot Brackets to the Bag Carrier with the supplied short bolts and nuts. Be sure to lubricate the threads first.
As a practical matter, if you have 4 inches (100 mm) of clearance when you measure from the bottom of the Carrier to pavement or any smooth surface, you will have less than that when you sit on your bike which will squish the tires a little. When riding on the fairway or in the rough, you will have even less clearance to the grass. So 4 inches is the desired amount when the bike is upright and unloaded, measured to a smooth surface such as pavement. If you then go golfing and sense that it is too low (or too high), you can always adjust it by relocating the position of the Slot Brackets on the Bag Carrier.
NEVER allow the bottom of the Carrier to hit a curb, paved path edge, rocks, or any obstructions. Pay close attention to the clearance as you ride over the edge of pavement or other obstacles, and be careful while riding around things that are sticking up from the ground.
Orientation of Slot Brackets – As noted above, with most standard installations, the Slot Brackets will be oriented with the slots “down”. The bolts are inserted from the bag-side as shown.
If you are installing on a 26 inch or taller bike, or a bike with the battery under the rack which makes the rack higher, you might need to orient the Slot Brackets with the slots at the top as shown in the next picture. The slots could even be above the top of the Carrier Frame for taller bikes.
With the slots “up” you will want to insert the top bolts with the head on the slot-bracket side as shown. This will allow clearance from the main Rack Bracket.
Attach the Rubber Bumper
With everything bolted together, it is now time to affix the Rubber Bumper to the back of the Bag Carrier Frame using the supplier Phillips head bolt and nylon nut.
Wear Marks – As noted earlier expect the process of attaching and removing the Carrier from the Rack Bracket, and of pivoting the Carrier in and out of the kick stand orientation to rub some of the powder-coated finish off as normal wear. You can touch it up any time you want to. The easiest way to do that is with black finger nail polish which is a tough enamel and comes with its own little brush.
If you have any questions about how our Golf Bag Carrier will fit on your ebike, please send an email with a full view of your bike and close-up pictures of the rack to sales@golfebikes.com.
Divnick Golf Bag Carrier – Patent Pending
CAUTION – CAUTION – CAUTION
The most common riding mistake is when you ride onto or off the RIGHT edge of a raised cart path causing the bottom of the Bag Carrier to hit the paved path. When riding onto or off the right side of a raised path, do it at right-angles. NEVER allow the bottom of the Bag Carrier to hit anything solid such as the paved path, curb, rock, root, or post.
Note: Some of the videos and photos show small ropes to secure the bag to the Carrier Frame which we used in the beginning. But we now provide cam buckles and straps that work the same as on a golf cart.
The Bag Carrier will hold all average size golf bags, at least the dozens of models we have tested. We do not recommend staff bags or bags with large-diameter bottoms. Ideally, you will want a bag that fits all the way to the back of the Carrier frame…and most do. For practical reasons, we recommend “going light” with a carry bag that isn’t loaded down with dozens of balls.
Some customers add a folded towel or other cushion between the legs of their carry bag and the Carrier frame to prevent rattling and any possible scratching of the legs of their bag.
The straps are long enough for most bags, even large bags. But if your bag has a stiff pocket right where the top strap is located as in the photo illustration, let us know before you order so we can include a longer strap.
If you prefer ropes, synch-belts, shock-cords, bungees or other methods of securing your bag to the Carrier, we have include slots and holes to make any method easy.
In the top-left picture below, notice that there are 3 strap slots with holes in the center of slots 1 and 2. Assuming you are mounting the carrier on the left side of your bike (recommended), mount the cam buckles in the holes in the 1-slot in the top and bottom wings on the right side of the carrier. If you mount on the right side (not recommended), you can affix the buckles on the left side of the Carrier.
