Bag Carrier Instructions
We have divided the Bag Carrier Instructions into two sections:
- The first half describes the FUNCTIONALITY, how to “use” the Golf Bag Carrier while playing golf. It includes videos, hints, and safety cautions.
- The second half is the actual INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS…how to mount the Bag Carrier to your ebike with photo references.
(Assembly and Operational Instructions of the Heybike Ranger ebike are described in our FAQ’s here.)
The information below is just about the Bag Carrier.
Functionality of the Quick-Attach Golf Bag Carrier
Our Bag Carrier will fit any ebike with a rear rack, even those with super tall 29 inch tires.
By “Quick-Attach” we mean that the “Bag Carrier Frame” can be placed onto and removed from the rack mount in 2 or 3 seconds without the need for any pins, bolts, or locking devices. It is held in place by gravity and the patent-pending “Blade-and-Slot” design. The benefit of the quick-attach feature is so you can easily remove the carrier when you want to load, unload, or fold your bike, and when you want to use your ebike for purposes other than golf.
The rack mount bracket itself is secured to your bike rack with supplied nuts and bolts. Because it is flat, most of our customers just leave it on their rack between golf rounds, so all they have to do is slip the bag carrier onto the blade mounts. The first video below takes you through most of the functionality of the Bag Carrier. The second video focusses on the quick-attach of the Carrier to the Bracket. These videos were made in our factory in Ohio.
The next short video shows a small portion of the longer video above, specifically how to attach and remove the Bag Carrier in 2 or 3 seconds. To remove the Carrier, you will angle the BOTTOM of the Carrier AWAY from the bike just so the bottom of the slot bracket can be raised up into the “Lift & Remove Notch,” which allows the top of the slot to come out of the “Pivot Notch” and off of the bracket.
This combination of movements cannot be accidentally replicated while riding or while using the Carrier as a kick stand which is why it is so solid and yet easy to remove without any pins or fasteners. You will notice the “Optional Lock-Out” which can be used by golf courses who rent ebikes since they don’t need to remove the bag carrier.
If you have a carry stand bag, its “foot” will fit through the open space at the bottom of the bag carrier frame as shown in this picture.
Note: Some of the videos and photos show small ropes to secure the bag to the Carrier Frame which we used in the beginning. But we now supply these custom 1-piece solid aluminum triglide adjusters and poly straps.
Alternatively, if you prefer ropes, synch-belts, shock-cords, bungees or other methods, we have include slots and holes to make any method easy.
The Bag Carrier will hold any size and style golf bag. But as a practical matter, we recommend “going light” as if you were going to walk and carry your clubs.
The videos show you how to pivot the bag into the kick-stand angle when you arrive at your shot. With a little practice, you can do this while you are getting off your bike…all in one motion. Just make sure that you pivot the bag carrier ALL THE WAY OUT so the carrier and your bike have plenty of “lean” which will safely lock it to the ground…even on steep slopes. If on a side-slope, just orient your bike up-hill or down-hill rather than side-hill.
When you get back on your bike, you don’t have to touch your bag. It will automatically pivot back to vertical. But if it is a heavy bag, or if you have a light-duty bolt-on rear rack on your ebike, you might want to put your hand against the top of the bag as you move your bike upright so the bag doesn’t “slam” against the rubber bumper.
Loading your bag into the Carrier – Attach the Bag Carrier to the mounting plate empty…without your golf bag strapped to it. Then lean your bike onto the Bag Carrier in the kick-stand position. Then load and strap in your bag. We do NOT recommend trying to strap your bag in with the bike on its own kick stand which is not stable enough.
Pedal Position, Pedal Assist, and Gear Recommendations – The easiest way to take off is to use the throttle to get going, then add pedals. Most ebikes require you to be in at least PAS-1 for the throttle to work (it will not work in PAS-0). I recommend that you get used to it in PAS-1 and Gear 2 or 3, then increase the PAS and gears when you are comfortable with your bike. I usually ride with the pedal-assist in 3 or 4, and in 3rd or 4th gear.
CAUTION: Never start off with your left foot on the ground in front of the the Bag Carrier which can run into your heel and cause injury. If you let anyone ride your bike, be sure to tell them to put their left foot on the pedal before they take off.
I like to come to a stop with the LEFT pedal in about the 2 o’clock “power position,” so that when I get back on, I can press down on that pedal and use the throttle at the same time to take off.
When you come to a hill, you can go to the highest PAS setting to get full power from the throttle, whether you are pedaling or not.
Do not shift gears while only using the throttle or at a stop. You MUST be rotating the pedals as you shift gears. For instance, do not shift gears while you are stopped, and then take off which can cause the chain to “jump” too many sprockets. It is designed to shft up and down while pedaling.
If you park on an uphill slope, I recommend gearing down as you approach the parking spot so your bike is ready to start out in low gear when you get back on. With practice, you will discover your own preferences. If you are new to biking, you can learn the basics of how to shift gears by searching, “How to shift gears on an ebike” on YouTube.
POWDER COATED TEXTURED FINISH –The Divnick Golf Bag Carrier is made out of rugged 5052 aluminum and is powder coated with a durable textured finish that can withstand a lot of impact and wear. Of course, where the “slot-and-blade” hinge moves, it will wear through the powder coating and reveal bare aluminum. If at any time you want to touch up the finish, the easiest way to do it is with black fingernail polish which is hard, durable, dries quickly, and has its own little brush applicator.
SAFETY – Always ride safely, especially when riding around corners on wet pavement, crossing bridges, traversing steep hills, riding over loose gravel, or the edges of cart paths. Since ebikes on golf courses are a new initiative, we all want to work together to be safe and make sure the golf courses don’t have any reasons to restrict ebikes.
CAUTION – CAUTION – CAUTION
The most common riding mistake is when you ride onto or off the RIGHT edge of a raised cart path causing the bottom of the Bag Carrier to hit the paved path. When riding onto or off the right side of a raised path, do it at right-angles. NEVER allow the bottom of the Bag Carrier to hit anything solid such as the paved path, curb, rock, root, or post.
There is no manufactured mud guard or mud flap for fat-tire ebikes that is long enough to prevent grass from being thrown up under the bike. So we have found a source of heavy-duty 1/8 inch thick diamond plate rubber, and we make our own 12-inch long x 6-inch wide mudguards. The instructions below describe how to install them under a traditional fender brace as seen in these pictures.
Most ebikes use this same type of 2-hole fender brace system, although the materials will vary. If yours doesn’t fit our hole pattern, you can easily drill or punch new holes in the rubber. In fact, you can trim this rubber with a pair of scissors if you want it to be shorter or narrower or have rounded corners. Some customers have not used the fender brace and drilled new holes in the bottom corners of their fender and attached the mudguard with their own screws. This alows the mudguard to hang lower, and they can easily remove it if they want to do a different type of riding.
The instructions below refer to the numbered illustrations in this picture.
1 – Place a felt-tip mark on either side of the bracket to help you identify the center of the brace after you affix the mudguard. Then unscrew the 2 Phillips screws. Notice the orientation of the threaded female piece on the inside of the fender. The rounded inside edge of the holes goes against the inside of the fender.
2 – This picture shows the brace (in this case heavy wire), the rubber mudguard, the bracket-clamp piece with 2 Phillips screws, and the threaded female piece that is on the inside of the fender.
3 – Lay the mudguard and fender brace on a table or floor. Place the clamp-bracket with screws over the brace and holes, inserting the screws through the mudguard.
4 – Pick up the assembled mudguard, brace, and bracket, and insert the screws through the holes in the fender. In this picture, you can see the edge of my thumb. My index and middle fingers are holding the brace, clamp-bracket, and screws in place but not visible in this picture. Don’t be concerned about the orientation of the brace at this time. It can be extending in any direction.
5 and 6 – With your fingers holding the brace, clamp-bracket, and screws in place, put the threaded piece over the screws with the rounded screw-entry side against the screws. Holding the threaded piece with your thumb, turn the screws with a Phillip screw driver until the end of the screws are all the way through the threaded piece. Not tight, just all the way through.
7 – The next step is to make sure that the mudguard is straight in line with the fender. The easiest way to do this is to lay it upside down as illustrated in picture 7. You can maneuver the mudguard within the brace to get it straight. Then tighten the Phillips screws.
Now you are ready to install the fender following your bike assembly instructions. When you get the fender on, if by any chance the mudguard isn’t hanging straight, you can loosen the Phillips screws and straighten it. Just be careful not to unscrew them all the way out of the threaded piece.
NOTE: The thickness of the mudguard will squeeze the sides of the fender in a little. Be sure to “center” the fender so the tire does not rub it. Centering can be done by making sure the connection at the top (where the light is attached) is straight, and also by bending the side-braces in or out as necessary.
INSTALLING THE BAG CARRIER
The following instructions are for all ebikes EXCEPT Heybike Rangers and Explores. If you have a Ranger, click here. If you have an Explore, we have sent you the specific instructons.
As we said above, most customers will leave the Rack Bracket affixed to their rack. But if you plan on removing it from time to time, you might want to protect the paint on your rack. You can do this easily with duct tape or a cloth on the underside of Rack Bracket and topside of the clamp piece.
Our universal-fit golf bag carrier is designed to fit all ebike racks. Of course, all racks are different, so some adaptation might be required. If you will specify your bike model when you place your order, we will provide specific instructions for that rack if we have them. The first series of pictures below will give you an idea of what is involved and how to do it on your bike. If you have any questions about how our Golf Bag Carrier will fit on your ebike, please send an email with a full view of your bike and close-up pictures of the rack to email@example.com.
Our rack brackets have a variety of pre-drilled holes that you can use, along with supplied 1/4-20 Phillips head screws and nylock nuts which uses a 7/16″ end wrench or socket.
CAUTION: Be sure to lubricate the nut and bolt threads with any kind of oil or anti-seize.
Stainless hardware gets hot from the friction and can “lock up” causing the nut to seize to the bolt. If you don’t have any anti-seize or oil handy, scrape some bar-soap into the full length threads of the bolts. Also, thread the nuts on slowly. Do not use a speed wrench or battery driver.
Install the Rubber Bumper Bracket under the axle nut
The Rubber Bumper Bracket can be installed on most ebikes under the axle nut. It can be rotated to whatever angle is needed so that the left side of the bag Carrier Frame bumps up against it. For now, just hand-tighten with it in about the 4 o-clock position. Tighten the axle nut as tight as it was when you removed it. As with all the nuts and bolts on your ebike, check the axle nut from time to time to make sure it remains tight.
Alternate Mounting Options
Some ebikes have unusual design features. The bumper bracket might not fit under the axle nut. So you might have to come up with another solution. The accompanying picture shows the rubber bumper affixed to the back of the Bag Carrier so that it bumps up against the frame-arm of the bike. We provide a series of holes in the Carrier for this purpose. Some customers have purchased a piece of aluminum from the hardware store they affix to the back of the Bag Carrier which extends the reach of the rubber bumper. If it doesn’t line up with your ebike, send us pictures of your ebike and the brake-side of the hub. We will help you with a solution.
Where to locate our Rack Bracket on your rack
Generally speaking, you will want to affix our Rack Bracket as far back as possible so you have plenty of clearance between your back and your club heads. But it can’t be so far back that the rubber bumper bracket can’t reach the side of the bag carrier frame. The rubber bumper bracket is 2 5/8” long from the center of the axle to the center of the rubber bumper. The rubber bumper bracket can be rotated so that your Bag Carrier Frame can be closer, but the maximum is 2 5/8” behind the center of the axle…or as much as 2 3/4” would still work.
If you have a short rack, you might want to mount the bag carrier with part of our bracket off the end of your rack. Because of the strength of our rack bracket, you can have up to 1/3rd of it off the back of the rack.
Two Ways to Affix our Rack Bracket:
- Drilling holes in your rack, or
- Using our “Under-Clamp”
The most secure method to attach the Rack Bracket is to bolt it directly to your rack. If your rack has a couple of places where you can drill at least two1/4″ holes through it, you can bolt it without using the “clamp-piece” shown in the sequence below. If the holes in our rack bracket don’t line up with the places you want to drill through your rack, you can drill new holes through our bracket and your rack at the same time. Bolting directly to your rack only requires a minimum of 2 bolts, spread out as far apart as possible.
If your rack doesn’t have large enough tubes or cross pieces to drill, or if you don’t have a drill, you can “clamp” our bracket to your rack using the pre-drilled “underside clamp-piece” that will span under your rack frame as shown in the pictures below. Our bracket and clamp piece have matching holes, but if they don’t work easily with the bar-spacing on your rack, feel free to drill new holes using a 1/4 inch bit.
HINT: You may want to use the “clamp method” to make sure everything lines up before drilling holes in your rack
If your rack curves up in the back, you will need to mount our Rack Bracket in front of the up-curve, or add a “spacer” so you can ount the bracket all the way to the back, as illustrated in this picture. If you let us know the thickness you will need, and the width of your rack, we will include a piece of wood along with your Carrier. Or you can supply your own spacer which can be wood, composite deck board, oversized nuts, a stack of washers, a piece of aluminum tubing (pictured)…all available at any hardware store.
Using the “Underclamp” Method
The following pictures show the attaching procedure using the under-clamp piece which does not require drilling any holes in your rack.
Be absolutely sure to lubricate the threads on the bolts so they do not seize up. Tighten the bolts one after another, and keep tightening until they are as tight as you can get them with a screw driver, then tighten more with the 7/16″ wrench since you have more tightening leverage with the wrench than with the screw driver. We have included 4 bolts with the clamp piece which should accommodate the various thicknesses of most bike racks.
Notice that the bracket mounts with the bend DOWN over the side of the rack. Some people have mistakenly mounted it upside down with the hinge-blades UP.
It can be a little challenging to get the nuts started on the underside of the clamp-piece because there isn’t a lot of room for your fingers. But this isn’t something you will need to do more than once since you will leave the rack-bracket on the rack. We have two recommendations to make it easier, illustrated in the next picture.
1) Use a clamp to hold the rack bracket and under-plate in place while you install the bots and nuts.
2) Put a piece of tape under a closed-end wrench to hold the nuts. This will allow you to reach in under the plate and hold the nuts while you turn the bolts with your fingers to get them started, than take over with a Phillips screw driver, then final tightening with the wrench.
NEXT – Place the slot-brackets over the blades as shown. This orientation is with the slots “down” which is the most common orientation for 20″ ebikes. See further down for taller bikes.
NEXT – Place the bag carrier frame against the slot brackets. When your bike is in the upright riding position, the bottom of the Bag Carrier needs to be about 4 inches above the ground on bikes without rear suspension, or 6 inches on bikes with rear suspension. An easy way to attach the carrier with 4 inches of clearance is to place it on a 4×4 block of wood or a 2×4 on its edge with the bike leaning on its kick stand and the Bag Carrier almost straight up. A 2×4 or 4×4 is actually only 3 1/2 inches wide, but with the bike leaning on its kick stand and the Carrier straight up, it raises the bottom of the Bag Carrier about 1/2 inch which results in the desired 4 inch clearance. If you don’t have a piece of wood, you will need someone with a tape measure as you position the carrier over the slot brackets.
As a practical matter, if you have 4 inches of clearance when you measure from the bottom of the Carrier to pavement or any smooth surface, you will have less than that when you sit on your bike which will squish the tires a little. When riding on golf course grass, you will have even less clearance. So 4 inches is the desired amount when the bike is upright and unloaded, measured to a smooth surface such as pavement. If you then go golfing and sense that it is too low (or too high), you can always adjust it by relocating the height of the Carrier on the Slot Brackets.
NEVER allow the bottom of the Carrier to hit a curb, paved path edge, rocks, or any obstructions. Pay close attention to the clearance as you ride over the edge of pavement or other obstacles, and be careful while riding around things that are sticking up from the ground.
NEXT – Bolt the Carrier Frame to the Slot Brackets in the closest matching holes, starting with one of the lower bolts that will go through the bottom of the Slot Bracket. If the holes don’t line up perfectly while resting on the block of wood, then raise the Carrier Frame “up” to the closest matching holes.
Orientation of Slot Brackets – With most standard installations, the Slot Brackets will be oriented with the slots “down”. The bolts are inserted from the bag-side as shown.
If you are installing on a 26 inch or taller bike, or a bike with the battery under the rack which makes the rack higher, you might need to orient the Slot Brackets with the slots at the top as shown in the next picture. The slots could even be above the top of the Carrier Frame for taller bikes. With the slots “up” you will want to insert the top bolts with the head on the slot-bracket side as shown. This will allow clearance from the main rack mount.
NEXT – Test the clearance at the bottom of the bag carrier with your bike straight up to see if it is at least 4 inches to a smooth surface without the added weight of a rider or set of clubs loaded. If not, make the necessary adjustment by re-bolting the carrier frame up or down as needed. Make sure that the nuts on the back side of the Frame do not touch the Rack Bracket when angled out into the kick-stand position. You can move the bolts up or down as necessary.
When you are satisfied with how everything fits together, tighten the axle nut to hold the Rubber Bumper in place. Tighten it with as much force as you can using a wrench.
Possible Kick Stand Interference – Most ebikes will not have any issues with their kick stand interfering with the Bag Carrier. If your kick stand interferes, click here to see suggested solution
Wear Marks – Expect the process of attaching and removing the Carrier from the Rack Bracket, and of pivoting the Carrier in and out of the kick stand orientation to rub some of the powder-coated finish off as normal wear.
Divnick Golf Bag Carrier – Patent Pending